The addition of bias binding (bias tape) is one of several ways to finish the raw edge of a garment. I like it for a more feminine look (vs. bands) or to add a little extra detail (instead of just a hem). For this bias binding application I am going to use an invisible stitch. This will allow the finished item to have a more upscale/ polished look.
Before you start, you will need to cut your bias tape. If you are using store bought, then skip this step.
To cut your bias tape, fold your fabric 90* from salvage to salvage. This is how you cut on the bias. It will allow your binding to gently stretch around corners and curves. Measure your area where you will be applying your binding and cut to length. If you are omitting a neckband or other band for this type of binding, make sure you are using a fabric with stretch, same as you would for the bands. You will then cut your binding shorter, 85% of the opening.
Now that you have your length all set, who wide do you want your binding to be? It is your preference. Sometimes a wide binding is a better fit for your garment, other times you may want a slimmer binding. For the item I am making I am cutting my binding 1.5″ wide.
*A rotary cutter, mat and ruler are best for cutting bias tape.
After you cut your binding, sew your short ends together.
*It is helpful to press your binding in half length wise and then quarters before you sew the ends. I am using vegan leather, so pressing is not an option for me.
Now, pin your binding to your fabric edge, with right sides together, matching up quarter marks.
Sew or serge your binding on. You want to sew on the first quarter line you pressed- if you pressed your binding. Store bought binding will have these creases pressed in them already.
After you attach your binding, fold the edge of your binding up to the stitching line you just made.
Here is where the invisible stitch will be done. You are going to sew “in the ditch” of your seam. This means the area between your fabrics. By sewing “in the ditch” you will not be able to see your stitches. This is also hand for facing you want to keep in place. Or anywhere you don’t want stitches to show.
That’s it. Your binding is now done and your have beautiful clean binding. Very professional finish and not a ton of extra effort.
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