Don’t be nervous if your pattern calls for you to sew a dart. It is not hard, you can do it. Done correctly it will give you a beautifully fitted garment.
First thing, you don’t want to use a serger for this. There are a lot of times your serger will be of great benefit to your sewing, this is not one of those times. Sometimes when sewist gets a serger, they forget all about ol’ reliable, your standard sewing machine. But, there are many things your sewing machine can and will do better than a serger. Your serger is not a replacement for your sewing machine.
To begin, transfer your dart marks to your fabric. I am using an air soluble Fabric marker. These marks will disappear in about 24 hrs or so. If you need to draw the lines to connect the dots, do that too.
Next you will fold your dart over, matching up dots. You are going to start sewing at the bottom of your dart. You can backstitch here if you’d like. Sew a straight stitch up to the top of your dart and right off the edge of the fabric. You will want to sew a slight curve, not a straight line. A straight line will give you a sharp triangle, not a nice curve.
DO NOT BACKSTITCH ! Backstitching here will cause your fabric to pucker, divot, dimple, or wrinkle. Basically it will not lay flat and pretty when you are done. -These are also things that can happen if you serge your darts.
When you are done sewing your dart, leave a bit of a thread tail at the end. You are going to tie this in a knot. I like to tie 3 knots, for good measure. After that clip the excess threads. Press your dart to set your stitches. Usually you will press your darts towards the side seam, but your pattern may call for something different.
That is it. That is all you need to do. Now go sew yourself some darts!
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