Roll hem/ Lettuce Edge 101

Hemming skirts can be super quick and easy with roll hems and lettuce edge hems.  Working on a serger is the best way to get these results.  I have a Brother 1034d.  If you have a different serger, that’s ok, you can still follow along.  Just look up your roll hem settings in your manual.  If you are not using a serger, you can still do a similar roll hem on your standard machine.  You will need a roll hem foot.

1st thing is to set your tension.  My settings are like this 4-0-5-7 ( I am taking out my right needle, that is why it is 0)  By taking out your right needle you will get a smoother hem.  If you want a slimmer hem, maybe for tulle, organza, or other light weight fabrics, just remove the left needle instead.

Your thread choice is important too.  For the best roll hem or lettuce edge you want to use stretch thread or woolly nylon thread in your loopers.  This will give your hem a really nice full finished look. ( I prefer the Stretch Maxi Lock Thread over Woolly Nylon)


My differential feed (far left) is going to be as low as possible. My stitch length (middle) is going to be set to R for roll hem. My blade (far right) will be set to R for roll hem as well.


Remember to remover your stitch finger.


Now you can begin your hem.  If you are doing a standard roll hem, just let the machine take the fabric as slow as it needs to.  If you are doing a lettuce hem, you will need to pull the fabric tight from front to back, and allow the machine to take the fabric as slow as it needs to.  By stretching the fabric, you are putting more stitches (more thread) into your hem, creating a wavy look.


When you come to the end of your hem, sew over the start of your hem about an inch.  You want to cross the hem to keep it from unraveling.  Once you have crossed the start of your hem, stop sewing and lift the presser foot and then sew a little to release a chain stitch from the machine.  Trim extra thread.


And your are done!  Here is what my Lettuce edge looks like all finished up!  It is really pretty and not hard to do.

This is a hem using rainbow variegated thread from Maxi Lock Swirls .  You only need 1 spool in your upper looper.  It is so pretty and comes in a ton of color options.

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    • I followed the tutorial without her recommended thread, I just used my regular polyster thread and it failed. : (

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