Lace or crochet style appliques are one of my favorite ways to gussy up a basic pattern. But how the heck do you sew this into your garment? I am going to take you through the steps and you to add these beauties to your next project.
I found this lovely ivory applique and new I needed to use it asap!
Now, take the back bodice piece of whatever you are sewing your applique onto and lay your applique on top of the right side of the back piece. Make sure you center your applique and are happy with the position.
Next, your are going to pin the heck out of it! Seriously you don’t want this to shift or move, lots of pins…. lots! After you have pinned it down securely, sew around the edge as close to the main points and curves as possible. I am using a twin stretch needle here, and my longest stitch length setting. I like this method better than a zig zag, because a zig zag will be way more noticeable and less clean/ polished looking in the end. You can easily substitute the twin needle for a cover stitch machine if you have one.
After you have sewn around the whole piece, remove the pins, and flip it over. It should look a lot like this. Notice I did not sew around the top of the applique. I am going to leave that alone, so It stays open in the end. I also trimmed the applique at the shoulders, so it can be sewn into my shoulder seam. This is just my preference, you can leave them if they carry over and just sew them down later. If you choose to leave them, you will want to leave your seam allowance open as well or attach the sleeves before starting the applique.
With a fabric marker, draw a 1/2″ border around the inside of your stitch lines.
Now, trim away all the inner fabric up to the 1/2″ border you just made.
You can serge the inside raw edge if you’d like for a more finished look. If you have cover stitch you won’t need to serge the raw edges.
Notice I left a larger area at the bottom of the applique. This is a large applique and I didn’t want it open that far down the shirt. (just a preference)
Now, you are going to flip it over to the right side and fold under the 1/2″ border and sew over on to the already stitch lines. (or as close as you can) I am using a twin stretch needle here, and my longest stitch length setting. I like this method better than a zig zag, because a zig zag will be way more noticeable and less clean/ polished looking in the end. You can easily substitute the twin needle for a cover stitch machine if you have one.
Once you are done top stitching the applique, this is what the inside will look like.
I did not add a neck band to this one. I simply folded the fabric 1/2″ under and top stitched it down around the neck opening.
See more applique tutorials here
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