I saw a top like this at the mall while ago and it has been haunting me ever since. I knew the Juniper top for women, from Halla Patterns would be perfect for this hack. I love this top for it’s fitted style. It also doesn’t hurt that there are several option included in the pattern already. I recommend this pattern, but you could easily adapt it to another fitted top you have on hand.
To cut the front piece you will need to mark a few measurements on your pattern piece first. My pattern piece is a size small , so yours may be slightly different depending on size. You want an opening about 6″ x 1″. This will stretch when you wear it, so you don’t want to make it too big or you will not have enough coverage- if you know what I mean.
My first rule to pattern hacking is to always make one as directed by the pattern designer first. This is super helpful here, because this is a fitted raglan style. Once you have your first one sewn up you’ll want to mark (with a pin or disappearing pen)where your bra strap and your bra meet. You don’t want your opening to go below that. Of course this will be slightly different depending on the style bra you are wearing. The goal is to keep the opening away from the general area to prevent your bra from showing. Also measure or mark where the bottom of your bra band hits on your side seam.
Creating the lower bodice
I made my opening start 3.75″” down from the top of my bodice. I left a 1″ space then marked where the bottom bodice will start. Next I marked 3.75″ down from the top of the sleeve side. Since I want the opening to be 6″ wide, I measured over 3″ from the top of my upper bodice, then drew a line down. This is where I want my upper and lower bodice to meet. Now, draw a gentle curve from the lower bodice mark to the mark you made on the sleeve side. Make sure you cross that mark you made 3″ in from the center.
Creating the upper bodice
You already have the top of your upper bodice marked. (3.75″ down from the top of the bodice), and you measured over 3″ (where your upper and lower bodice will meet). Next mark 2.5″ down the side, if you are making a larger size you may need to lengthen this a bit. This is where your bra bottom of the band hits your side seam. Make a few marks the same distance away from sleeve side and connect the dots. Gently curve your lines up toward the mark that intersects the upper and lower bodice. Then continue up to the first mark you made – 3.75″ down from the top of the bodice.
Shortcut cheat – You can use the shoulder point on the neck line and measure over 2″. Line that up with with the bottom sleeve/ side seam point. The spot where they intersect is about where you want to start your opening for your cut out.
I know it seams like a lot of measuring and drawing, but this is the hardest part and now it is done! Your pattern piece should look something like this now:
Cut 2 upper pieces. One from your main fabric and one from your accent fabric to be the liner. When you cut the lower front piece, start at the side and cut along the same line as the upper piece, then down to the fold. Do not cut up the whole curve to the shoulder side.
Your cut pieces should look line this:
This next step is optional. On the lower front/ bodice piece, serge across the top curve. Leave the sides.
Pin or clip 1/2 down and sew with a twin stretch needle to finish this edge.
After you finish the top curve on your lower bodice, take your upper bodice and match up the sides. Follow the curves up to where they meet and mark this spot on your upper bodice. Do this for both sides.
Pin the upper and lower bodice with right sides together. Be sure to match up the marks.
Take your upper bodice liner piece pin it to the main upper bodice piece, Right sides together, matching up sides and centers. Your lower bodice will be sandwiched in between the two upper bodice pieces.
Then sew or serge them together.
*I am only taking a 1/4″ seam allowance, so for this style I didn’t add any extra seam allowance before we cut. This is so the top is slightly tighter than the original non hacked version. You don’t want the fabric to be too loose or it will sag and pull open too much.
Now, open it up. Press and pin it nice and flat.
At this point you can return back to your pattern and follow the instructions as directed.
Need more help?
Join me in my facebook group.
Comment and let me know how you like my tutorial. If you use my tutorial or sewing tips and share them, please link back to me or use the hashtags #LittleRagamuffinTutorial #LittleRagamuffinTip