Adding a long cuff with snap or button details is a very easy way to dress up any pattern with sleeves. I love to look and it gives a little extra detail to your garment that you will love. I will be using Kam Snaps today, but you could substitute those for buttons if you’d like.
We are going to start with a little sleeve color blocking. I like it when patterns offer a 3/4 length sleeve option, that just makes life so much easier. If yours doesn’t, that is ok. You want to split the sleeve just below your elbow. You can measure from your shoulder to just below your elbow. After that, mark it on your pattern piece. If you follow my blog, you will notice I like to draw right on my pattern pieces. If you don’t like this method, you can trace your pattern onto another paper. I like this big roll style , so there is no taping pieces together. It is great to occupy kids too while you get your sew on 🙂
So, you measured and marked your pattern ( blue line), you will now need to add your seam allowance. This is how much fabric will be in your seam as you sew. I am using my serger, and I know it will give me 1/4 ” seam allowance, so that is what I will add to each side of my blue line. The red lines are my seam allowance and my cut lines. For the upper sleeve you will cut past the blue line to the 1st red line.
Now, for the lower sleeve you will cut up past the blue line to the 2nd red line. This will give you a the 1/4″ overlap for your seam allowance. You will also need to add 1″ to the “fold” side of your pattern (Do not cut on the fold). Cut 8 lower sleeves. I am using solid knit with now right or wrong side, so position doesn’t matter here. I you have a definite right side, you will want to cut 4 mirror sets.
After you cut your lower sleeve pieces out, lay them right sides together. Pin or clip the insides together. you will be sewing that seam (red lines, the blue is your “fold” side. We will sew those next) Remember you have 4 sets to do.
After you sew your inner seam, you will lay your lower sleeves right sides together, and sew both sides and bottom. You will now have 2 sleeves, each with 4 panels.
Once your have your sleeves sewn, flip them right side out, and press all seam to make your sleeve flat and crisp. You may top stitch around the edges if you’d like, leaving the top open.
Remember the 1″ we added to the “fold” side? Well, we have sewn a 1/4″ of that already leaving us with 3/4″ to over lap for buttons or snaps. I have pinned this to keep them together. You can add your snaps or buttons now if you’d like. Spacing, size, and style of your buttons or snaps is your preference. Because I ran out of the color snaps I wanted to use for this project, I am just going to pin these together and sew them into the upper sleeve just like this. When my new snaps come, I will add them.
Now, you are going to slid your lower sleeve inside your upper sleeve, right sides together. Make sure your raw edges are together, lining up seams on the inside. Pin or clip the sleeve in place and sew.
After you are done sewing your sleeves together, turn them right side out and your sleeve is done. Unless you are like me and didn’t plan ahead with the right snaps, then you will be waiting on a usps delivery! LOL
My snaps finally came and I was able to finish my sleeves 🙂
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